El Molino Chardonnay Rutherford 2015

Most often when you think of Napa Valley and more specifically, Rutherford, you think of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. However, a large percentage of Chardonnay has been ripped out over the last several decades to keep up with the overwhelming demand for Napa Cabernet. There is no denying, Cab is King. Thankfully though, opposite the masses and to the confound of his neighbors, Reginald Oliver, thought differently. In 1978, Reginald bought the legendary El Molino property and its ghost winery, halfway between Saint Helena and Calistoga. Incredibly rich in history, dating back to 1843 when the Bale Grist Mill was built on the property, making it a focal point for the settlement of the Napa Valley whose economy during this period centered on wheat and its milling into flour. In the late 1800s the cellar was built along with hand-dug caves and wines sourced from this property and surrounding vineyards were produced there until 1910. Remarkably, some of those old bottles are still in existence today. 

After purchasing the property, Reginald set out to restore the winery and make wines with Burgundian traditions. No longer having vineyards on his property, he set out to find a special vineyard that could produce world class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In 1987, he purchased the Star Vineyard in Rutherford, to this day a sought-after vineyard that other winemakers source Cabernet and Chardonnay from (most notably Forman, Pott, Newton, Saddleback, and Venge). The 68-acre vineyard was originally planted to 30 acres of Chardonnay with the remainder of Cabernet. Ignoring all advice, Reginald pulled some Cab vines and planted his first two acres of Pinot Noir, later adding another four. Today, the winery is still in the family with his daughter, Lily, and her husband, Jon Berlin, making the wine and running all facets of this small, historic Napa Valley winery. 

The 2015 Chardonnay stands above the vintages preceding it. The fourth year of drought stressed the vines to yield a small harvest of intensely flavored and structured fruit. The primary aromatics are of lemon oil, wet stone, sea salt and fejoa fruit. Preserved pineapple, roasted pine not and green tea support the primary fruit. A supple attack fans across the palate but is kept in check by the cutting acidity that frames the rich flavors into focus. The wine is 100% barrel fermented and malolactic fermentation is blocked to keep the purity of fruit flavors in the forefront. Eleven months of aging in 50% new French oak barrels help to build the wines textured mouthfeel.