Hibou Star Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford 2019

One of our favorite things here at ACME is supporting our friend's and neighbors’ projects. So, when we had the distinct pleasure of tasting the newest lineup from Jason and Hilary Driscoll’s Hibou label, we were ecstatic. Their wines always have over-delivered, and after tasting their Hibou Star Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, we were wonderstruck.

Their label is adorned with a gold owl, an ancient cultural signifier of wisdom. Patient and tenacious seekers, did you know that a flock of these sage avians is called a parliament? They are also great friends of the vineyard- indeed, their ecological benefits lead many growers to outfit their vineyards with nesting boxes to encourage their habitation. So, when Jason and Hilary Driscoll, the husband-and-wife team with a singular focus on seeking out exceptional vineyard sources, were deciding on a name for their wine label, “Hibou” (pronounced ee-boo), the French word for owl, seemed the perfect fit.

A trained chef, Jason’s first foray into wine was a harvest spent at Elsom Cellars, a small family winery in Woodinville, Washington. The family relocated to St. Helena to fulfill his dream of working at the Culinary Institute of America. After spending time balancing kitchen apprenticeships and winery work, Jason eventually gravitated toward the cellar’s slower pace and in-depth processes. Sourcing flavorful fruit from exceptional vineyards throughout Northern California, Hibou allows Jason to express his passion for winemaking across a broad palette of microclimates. Like an owl in pursuit, once he sets his sights on fruit with which he resolutely wants to work with, he will use culinary persuasion, picnic basket in tow, to seal the deal. Jason once knocked on a grower’s farmhouse door kitted out with some homemade pâté and champagne. After an amicable lunch, a chat, and a stroll through the vines, he had a fruit contract.

Jason took a different tack to source Cabernet Sauvignon from the legendary Star Vineyard in Rutherford, owned by the Oliver family for generations. For over five years, Jason gently prodded proprietor Jack Oliver for a small quantity of fruit from his vineyard located between Round Pond and Inglenook in the heart of the famous AVA. Most of the grapes from this spot go top dollar to cult producers and more prominent wineries with larger budgets. But a few years back, Jack and Jason were part of a duck-hunting trip with friends. The group members dressed, cooked the ducks, and then threw a feast. After one of these repasts—and an outstanding culinary performance on Jason’s part—Jack gave in. Star is in a fabled Rutherford location, and Jack took a chance on Hibou. Jack is a constant, guiding presence for Jason in the vineyard, and the two have become great friends, making the wine that much more meaningful.

Hibou has access to two precious blocks of stellar Cabernet Sauvignon planted in Rutherford dust; one is Martha’s Vineyard clone, and the other Clone 7. The Driscoll’s keep the winemaking incredibly simple: sample the fruit, measure the sugar levels and harvest directly into the bins. Fermentation progresses naturally, with native yeasts, in open-top tanks. Jason allows the cap to form and performs a combination of punch-downs and pump-overs, depending on the day, with an extended 30-day maceration before the wine ages 16 months in 25% new oak. This is a big, rich cashmere blanket of a wine. Dark blue fruits, leather, and spice resonate on the full palate- it is at near perfection paired with a grilled porterhouse steak. Only 102 cases were produced.