Turning Tide White Wine Santa Ynez Valley 2020

These days, the terms "organically grown" and "sustainably farmed" appear on wine labels and descriptions without much detail.   In reality, the effort behind these practices is time-consuming, complex, expensive, and labor-intensive. So, it is no small decision for a winemaker to set out on a genuinely sustainable path when it comes to winemaking, which extends from vineyard to bottle. However, Alisa Jacobson sees sustainability as the only way forward. She has made it her mission to "turn the tide" on how wine gets made in California. This mission is why she launched Turning Tide in 2018 with a dedication to showcase coastal vineyards that are sustainably farmed and grow fruit that result in expressive, complex wines.

Bit by the farming bug early, Alisa (who goes by AJ) grew up in Brentwood, California, surrounded by farms and a small cherry orchard and vegetable garden on her parent's property. She learned a holistic approach to farming that recognizes the connection of soils to the ecosystem early on. Referencing a Farmer's Almanac, observing weather patterns, and monitoring the moon's cycle all played into how she handled her "crops." Equally influential was her time spent on the Mendocino Coast as a child with her grandparents. She credits her grandmother, Irene, with developing her love of the ocean while fishing for abalone in the early mornings on the Northern California coastline. Like many California kids interested in agriculture, Alisa made her way to UC Davis, where she was bit again, this time by the wine bug. After graduation, she joined the team at Joseph Phelps winery. Alisa's hardworking reputation caught the attention of Joseph Phelps' Head Winemaker, Sarah Gott, who was in the beginning stages of launching a brand with her husband, Joel. The Gotts took a leap of faith with Alisa and hired her to be the Winemaker (she was employee #1!) for what would come to be Joel Gott Wines. Alisa spent 18 years working her way up to Vice President of Winemaking. She transformed the small label to a household name, producing over 1 million cases a year. All the lessons learned while "growing up" with Joel Gott Wines informed her: to be curious and perceptive, seek out new opportunities for vineyard sourcing, and experiment with under-utilized varietals.

Her 2020 Santa Ynez White Wine is a blend of Chenin Blanc and Verdelho from two coastal sites; the Verdelho is grown on one of Alisa's private vineyards. Santa Ynez's sandy soils and coastal fog greatly influence the vines. Sand forces the roots to dig deep for water, intensifying the depth of flavor, and the mist maintains cool temperatures that preserve the acidity.   Alisa insists on regenerative farming for all the vineyards she works with, even though it is not a certified methodology.   The practice can be defined in many ways but is indeed the holistic way Alisa farmed back on her family’s cherry orchard. The vineyards never use chemical herbicides or pesticides, promote biodiversity with native plants and beneficial insects, and fertilize with organic materials that don't negatively impact the health of the soils.

After harvesting in early October, the Verdelho grapes cold-macerated on their skins before being combined with whole clusters of the Chenin Blanc for a co-fermentation. After fermenting, the wine aged in stainless steel tanks for just under nine months before bottling. Alisa's sustainable mission extends to packaging. Turning Tide bottles are lightweight, recycled glass with compostable labels and recyclable tin closures (sourced from environmentally conscious companies). All the vineyard and cellar efforts combine to produce a crisp, bright, and aromatic wine. The nose is full of citrus fruits and white flowers, with a touch of salinity on the palate. Macerating on the skins gives texture allowing the wine to linger ever so slightly.  A glass of the refreshing Turning Tide white is perfectly paired with a day at the beach.