DuPuis The Wendling Pinot Noir Anderson Valley 2018

Wells Guthrie has reached acclaim in the food-and-wine world and has produced some of California's most terroir-driven and food-centric wines. His introduction to wine was through his role as a tasting coordinator for the Wine Spectator, where he learned the mechanics of an influential wine magazine. Having been granted access to all limbs of the wine industry, Wells felt a yearning to make the wine himself. So, he and his wife shipped off to France, where Guthrie spent two years apprenticing with prominent Rhône vintner Michel Chapoutier. Wells worked for Chapoutier for two seasonsin boththe winery and vineyards, learning about the northern Rhône varietals and biodynamics.  Upon returning home, he and his wife established Copain, and his Syrah began garnering top scores from critics. Guthrie was an ascending star, and his top wines were described as "blockbuster," with "enormous richness and massive fruit extract." However, there was one problem: Guthrie found that his wines shared even less in common with the restrained northern Rhone examples he knew and loved. So, when James Atwood of San Francisco's Rose Pistola challenged Guthrie to dial it down a bit, the winemaker was game for an experiment. He was willing to trade less ripeness for "more energy" in his wines, even if those wines might be a tough cultural sell.

In 2003, Wells made his first vintage of Pinot Noir, and against the market's desires, he chose to pick early.This decision was wildly radical at that time but came with great reward. Copain began to garner a new kind of attention, one for an old-world technique that resulted in Pinot Noirthat clockedin under 12% alcohol –a revelation! "I did what I thought was best for the wines at the time," Guthrie says. "It turned out to be the best thing I ever did." After two decades of immense success and growth, Wells sold Copain to Jackson Family Wines in 2015. Wells stayed on as winemaker, but not for too long. His vision for the wine significantly diverged from the needs of a multinational corporate owner. So he moved his family to a 40-acre estate in Anderson Valley, planted seven acres of Pinot Noir, and started again.

It was in Burgundy that he picked up the nickname "Puis" which means "well" or "wells" in Old French. His new brand, DuPuis, means "Of Wells". These wines are a true embodiment of all that Wells stands for. He spends his days working beside his sole employee in the vineyard and winery, with added help from his wife, Kate, and family when duty calls. His wines are purely sourced from Anderson Valley with the sole vision of continuing to explore and elevate the greatness in this valley.

This 2018 Pinot Noir is DuPuis' inaugural release from the Wendling Vineyard. Located at the furthest end of Anderson Valley, dubbed "Deep End", the vineyard thrives in the cooler climate that's seven miles from the Pacific Ocean. Soils here are littered with shale and sandstone and are quite low vigor. When it comes to grapevines, a hearty struggle in cold temperatures delivers a wine with vibrant acidity and deeply concentrated flavor. The 30% whole cluster berries are evident in the ripe, voluptuous dark red fruits on the nose—the palate hints at ginger and earl grey tea with a broader expression of raspberry and plums. Finely woven tannins with a tight thread of minerality give the wine a balanced structure and certain elegance. Wells Guthrie is proving with the 2018 Wendling Pinot Noir that with big risks come big rewards.