Agnanum Falanghina Campi Flegrei DOC 2021

When it comes to fascinating wine-growing regions, Campi Flegrei in Italy has uniqueness in spades.  Lying northwest of Naples, along the Amalfi Coast, where the Tyrrhenian Sea winds rush in each afternoon like clockwork, the area comprises large craters formed by volcanic activity, which left behind volcanic ash, sand, and basalt soils.  And Agnanum’s winemaker Rafaelle Moccia leans into the ancient vineyard management and winemaking traditions that once were commonplace in the area but are now almost extinct.  As a result, his choices out in the vineyard and the cellar set him apart from the host of producers who flocked to the area since it was awarded DOC status in 1994.

Romans were the first to plant vines on the slopes of these volcanic craters utilizing the ancient Falanghina and Piedirosso grapes.  Falanghina is the most widely planted white grape in Campi Flegrei, with a storied past as a favorite of the Romans and documented as “one of the finest grapes” by Pliny the Elder.  Due to a waxy coating on the grape skins, wine growers prize Falanghina for its ability to withstand the persistent winds off the Tyrrhenian Sea.  In addition, the vines flourish in volcanic soils, and due to the high content of sand, phylloxera does not exist in the region.  Therefore, vines are generally older and produce highly concentrated fruit prized by wine drinkers for the intensely perfumed aromatics. 

Rafaelle’s 10 hectares of vines range from 60 to 200 years old and are some of the few that remain planted at the top of the steep Agnano crater.  Farming these vineyards requires time, patience, and manual labor, which few are willing to commit to.  Not Rafaelle, though, as he is one of the last growers who tend to his land by hand, without the assistance of machines, as the terrain is too steep to reap the benefits of mechanization.  While he practices organic farming in his vineyards, it has never been to gain a catchy certification but instead as a byproduct of using tried-and-true methods from centuries ago.  One example is the freely growing grass between vines that acts two-fold as an absorbent layer to prevent wines from overwatering and as a cooling method during heat waves.  As if these laborious methods were not enough to fill his time, Rafaelle also operates a rabbit farm in conjunction with managing his vineyards, which was his primary source of income for many years.

His Falanghina undergoes native yeast fermentation in stainless steel and continues in the same vessels for complete malolactic fermentation and aging.  Keeping the fruit expression front and center, Rafaelle uses minimal sulfur in the winemaking practice, adding just a touch before fermentation for preservation purposes.  The wine masterfully exhibits the bold citrus aromas like lemon and grapefruit inherent with the varietal and the minerality inherent in the soils.  A kiss of salinity in each sip enhances the honeyed almond, white blossom, and green pear flavors on the palate with zippy acidity to brighten and lift the mouthfeel.  Agnanum’s 2021 Campi Flegrei Falanghina is a stamp of time and place, showcasing the sea breezes from the Tyrrhenian Sea, the intriguing volcanic soils of Campania, and the time-honored traditions of the region’s winemakers and winegrowers.