Mira do Ó Druida Encruzado Dão 2019

We won’t lie.  When you first begin to study the wines of Portugal, it can be overwhelming, especially for those who don’t speak a lick of Portuguese.  It introduces entirely new varietals not often grown outside the country, along with regions whose winemaking classifications rival the complexity of French wine law.  However, as lovers of Portuguese wines, we can attest that the extra time learning is totally worth it.  A common denominator with the wine professionals we have met in Portugal is a deep sense of pride and passion for their country’s production, whether it be the traditional techniques, the intricacies of specific terroir, or the indigenous varietals.  While visiting a Port house in Porto, Carina our Wine Club Director asked her hosts what other wines and regions they enjoy drinking on their time off.  Both women scratched their heads with perplexed looks, noting they drink primarily, if not exclusively, Portuguese wines.  They underlined their confusion, stating, “Why would we look elsewhere when our country produces exceptional and affordable wines already?”  This same appreciation for the complex Portuguese terroir drives the owner/winemaker behind Mira do Ó, who champions many of Portugal’s winemaking regions through several personal projects. 

Nuno Mira do Ó grew up on the Portuguese coast in Alentejo and studied in Lisbon for a degree in Agro-Industrial Engineering, followed by a degree in Oenology from UCP in Porto.  His winemaking career has spanned over two decades throughout Portugal, including the Bairrada, Bucelas, Monção, and Melgaço regions.  In 2012, Nuno established the Druida brand under Mira do Ó wines to explore the Dão and its heritage varietals, which means the formidable white wine grape, Encruzado.  Upwards of 75% of the wines from Dão are red.  Still, Encruzado makes up most of the 25% of white wines, sometimes blended with tiny percentages of Bical, Cercial, Malvasia Fina, Rabo de Ovelha, and Verdelho.  Grape growers and winemakers cherish Encruzado for its early budding and ability to maintain even acid and sugar levels.  The Dão’s topography and climate are favorable to the grape due to the higher elevation sites (such as the site for this wine which lies at 500 ft above sea level) and granite-dense soils that allow for slower ripening in what otherwise is a warm, and fast-ripening region.

Nuno’s winemaking style for Druida is the opposite of a heavy-handed style, and in his words, “it’s all about the grapes.”  All focus lies in the vineyards and decisions are made that intentionally show off the unique qualities of each varietal.  As for vinification, techniques are selected solely to highlight the terroir with as little intervention as possible while maintaining control.  For the Druida 100% Encruzado, this means native yeast and slow fermentation in French oak barrels—the varietal benefits greatly from incorporating oak to soften some of the more astringent flavors.  Nuno chose a split of 80% neutral and 20% new for the fermentation and the proceeding ten months of aging.  The aromas are surprisingly mineral-driven, with flinty notes overlaying citrus blossoms, lemon zest, and fresh thyme.  The textured palate and bright, fresh acidity extend through a long finish.   We don’t often age our white wines for long here in the States.  However, if you wanted to cellar away a bottle of the 2019 Mira do Ó Druida Encruzado, it would age gracefully, certainly building intriguing layers of complexity.