Battuello Vineyards Valdiguié St. Helena 2019

When touring Old World wine regions, one expects to encounter multi-generationally run wineries, with family at the helm dating centuries back.  However, it is far less likely in California, and those winemaking family trees often hold only one or two branches.  The Battuello family stands out in Napa Valley with five generations of grape growing and winemaking on their family’s 82-acre farm in St. Helena.  Traditions, knowledge, and appreciation for the land have been passed down from Great Grandfather Matteo to Great Great Grandchildren, Case & Alessa, with each set of hands molding and shaping for the future.

Matteo & his wife, Serafina, immigrated to the United States in 1906 and purchased a small piece of land in Napa Valley in 1909 at friends’ advice.  In those days, stone fruit and nut trees were the dominant crops, but being from northern Italy, Matteo couldn’t help but plant a few grapevines. Eventually, the vineyard grew more significant in size and variety, with Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Mondeuse Noire, Carignan, Valdiguié, and Alicanté Bouschet plantings.  Their son, Dominic, procured the adjacent property during his “tenure,” which expanded the vineyard.  Like father like son, in 2001, Craig (Dominic’s son) added a bordering plot to finalize the family’s 82 acres.  Each generation raised their families on this farm, connecting children and grandchildren to the land by walking the vines and participating in harvest.

Craig’s son, Dave, and his wife, Torey, lead the team today and are responsible for establishing the family’s wine label and the property’s transition to sustainable farming.  Before their leadership, the Battuellos sold most of their grapes to top producers in Napa, keeping just a small harvest back for their personal consumption.  As can happen in family businesses, the younger generation thought of moving outside the traditions by taking their family wine to the next level.  So in 2016, Dave & Torey hired Michael Trujillo as their winemaker to produce their very first vintage, and he has worked with the family ever since.

Of the 82 acres on the Battuello vineyard, Valdiguié represents a mere .32 acres.  Several times since the Valdiguié was planted in the 1930s, the Battuellos have considered pulling the vines and growing a more profitable, popular varietal.  However, the Valdiguié is the favorite of Dominic and Torey, who protect and petition for the vines to stay.  When planted initially, the grapes were called “Napa Gamay” as it was believed they were the same as the traditional Gamay vines in Beaujolais.  In the 1980s, an ampelographer determined that Napa Gamay was Valdiguié, yet it wasn’t until the early 2000s that legislation disallowed the term Napa Gamay on labels. 

Dominic and Torey embraced the Valdiguié for its light-bodied, fresh fruit characteristics, a stark contrast to the full-bodied, bombastic profiles of their other Bordeaux varietal wines.  17 months in French oak barrels (only 25% new) lends time to balance and layers of delicate toast without an oak profile that overpowers the blackberry, raspberry, and red plum aromas.  Lifted yet silky, the palate delights with flavors of mulled wine and freshly picked cherries.  This unique varietal wine is a limited production of only 120 cases!